Yves Saint Laurent--Inimitable

I just finished watching for the fifth time in 4 years, the 2004 haute documentary about the legendary French fashion designer Yves St. Laurent. Yves St. Laurent: His Life and Time, by David Teboul is a personal look into the life and times of this iconic—the finest, fashion designer. Personal note-I had the great pleasure of meeting Monsieur St. Laurent in the fall of 1993 when I was living in Paris. It was a great honor and a humbling experience to meet the man who gave women “Le Smoking” tuxedo; the first designer to use black models in his runway shows, the originator of the shoulder strap bag (not the tote bag), and the man responsible for bringing other ethnic societies as a source of inspiration to fashion. His fashion designs have left an inimitable mark in the firmament of what is the fashion universe. His Mondrian dress stands alone in the cosmos of innovation and artistic interpretation of pop art; his safari jacket still remains a key item in women’s wardrobes from Paris to New York, to Moscow and the vast landscape that makes up the stylish and fashionable macrocosm. And let’s not forget the pea coat. 

Pierre Boulat/Lancaster/Express/Getty Images (Hulton Archives)

In this provocative documentary we get a close look at how this master of haute couture began; his relationships with all those around him, most specifically with his partner Pierre Bergé and his right hand woman Loulou de la Falaise. We also get to intimately witness the creative world in which this masterful provocateur creates, produces and lives his fashion. “Ravishing,” “ideal,” “divine” and “sensational” are some of the statements St. Laurent and his most trusted friends and colleagues exclaim over and over throughout the film. The same adjectives can be used to describe the work and the life of one of the finest couturiers of the 20^th century. It is extraordinary to watch St. Laurent carefully craft the most beautiful and wearable clothes; some of which are true classic standards which defined an era and will remain constant reference for the next generation of fashion designers. Incredible as it may sound, St. Laurent began his long career at the age of 17 when he was hired to be Christian Dior’s assistant and who four years later (1958) after the sudden death of Dior became the creative mind of such prolific and perpetual couture house. In the film we are able to examine the kind of friendships St. Laurent cultivated and who he considered important, valuable and undeniably trusted confidants. We are guests to the most refined and theatrical fittings; we are told over and over that St. Laurent is like no other and his fashions are relics in the pantheon of fashion. “This dress is ravishing Georgette,” he exclaims to his right hand assistant. “Thank you monsieur,” timidly, yet gratefully she accepts a compliment from the master. Like this exchange there are many—many that are deserved and worth attributing.  



Le Smoking by Helmut Newton, Vogue 1975 Fall-Winter 83/84 Ensemble, Metmuseum.org

His loyal friend, collaborator and muse, Loulou de la Falaise ever present, suggesting, admiring, protecting and loving him. I wish I had a loyal and loving friend like Mademoiselle de la Falaise. Their friendship was neither fiction nor a sham; it was real and genuine. Catherine Deneuve unselfishly and tenderly remained his true friend and muse for several decades—their collaboration(s) started in 1966 when he dressed Deneuve in the Luis Buñuel film Belle de Jour. We are invited to listen to his older sister tell stories about her beloved brother. “He was critical of what I wore from an early age,” she reminisces “he knew from the age of three that he wanted to be a fashion designer,” she tells. It is obvious even to the uneducated eye that his talent was grandiose and that his fascination for the dramatic-theatrical influenced his career. Saint Laurent’s work influenced me greatly when I attended design school. How could he not? His work is undeniably like no other before him and timeless. His simple silhouettes and shapes that give reference to a masculine self and the refined tailoring—in his work you can see his influences too, the sculptural drama of Cristobal Balenciaga and the opulent romanticism of Christian Dior and the fabulous sensibility of Nina Ricci, which are exclusive qualities young designers these days look up to for potential design success. 

The Mondrian dress defined an era. Metmuseum.org

Whatever your opinion might be of this the last couturier or if you don’t know much or nothing at all about his life and times, this documentary will educate you and inspire you very much. I wish it could be longer, unfortunately, it is what is. Yves St. Laurent was a timid, shy person who lived a life filled with a lot of success and who throughout his career he maintained the highest standards for tailoring and for classic cut. His influence in the world of fashion and culture in general, will serve as the trademark for quality, creativity and aesthetic refinement. Now that I have offered you a glimpse about who Yves Saint Laurent was—a tremendous talented man, get to Netflix or Amazon and get yourself a copy of the documentary. You might really enjoy it. Actually, you will enjoy it greatly. You might be inspired and you might walk away more informed. Now I have to go and read a bunch of magazines to educate myself more and pass the legacy on to all of you.